Posted by Michael(KCMO) on March 18, 2006 at 18:42:23:
I’ve also used wood shims under the sub-floor at the transition between old & new. My method is to lay in the new flooring and then put a wood shim on top of it butted up against the old sub-floor. Since it’s a tapered shim, I find the point in the taper that provides a smooth transition and then cut off the part of the shim thicker than that. Do this at several points around the perimeter of the repair. Lift the new plywood out, put the shims underneath it on top of the floor joists or other braching I’ve added, lay the new plywood back down & secure the whole thing.
It will take a little bit of extra time, but it does make for a nice repair.
Posted by Glen (OH) on March 18, 2006 at 15:46:39:
I’m doing a rehab on a '92 Skyline with a lot of floor damage. As I was cutting up the bad spots, it appeared that the floor was swelled up far from the spots damaged by water. As I kept cutting I realized that the decking was actually 7/8" thick and not the usual 3/4". (I discovered this AFTER I had lugged 3 sheets from my barn attic, into the truck, and into the home.) Of course the big box home stores don’t carry 7/8" in either plywood or particle board. The contractor only lumber yards don’t seem to carry it either. My only hope may be to manufacture my own, with a sheet of 1/2" and a sheet of 3/8". Has any body else run into this problem, and if so where did you find the material?
‘Furing shims’ are available in the drywall section of Lowes. They are
made of compressed cardboard and measure about 1/16th in. in
thickness, 1 3/4 in. wide, 3 ft. long, and come in a box of many. They
should fix you up fine. Good luck.
You must have some really picky buyers. My buyers wouldn’t even notice much less care about a 1/8 inch variation in the floor. We’re talking the height of a couple of pennies. Why bother with shims or special plywood? I’d just nail down the 3/4 and forget about it.
why not save a lot of hassle… - Posted by Dr. B. (OH)
Posted by Dr. B. (OH) on March 18, 2006 at 21:59:39:
and tack your shims or strips of 3/8 to the floor joists? Then screw down your 3/4 on top. That way your finish floor is flush with the original (swollen or not).
Posted by Tony Colella on March 18, 2006 at 16:09:31:
Glen,
I use 23/32" plywood in all floor repairs. This plywood size is readily available and very strong.
From time to time I come across swollen or odd sized flooring (usually OSB).
Remember, these are mobile homes and “good enough” is all that the repairs need be. From time to time in my nicer doublewides I may go the extra mile with luan (sp?) over the plywood so as to better attach vinyl but that’s about it.
Tenants and mobile home buyers are willing to overlook a slight change in flooring. With pad and carpet these things are hardly noticeable and the tenant/buyer may never notice it or care.
Remember these are the same type of buyers who never ask interest rate and rarely the purchase price. They just want to know how much down and how much per month.
Get the flooring safe and secure, cover it with carpet or vinyl (add a transition threshold if need be) and move on.
Steve,
That’s what I did. I found a half sheet of Masonite in my lumber stash. I ripped 1 1/2" strips with my table saw. A little construction adhesive and a few finish nails later I was in business. Less than 20 minutes and zero dollars finished the job.
Re: why not save a lot of hassle… - Posted by Michael(KCMO)
Posted by Michael(KCMO) on March 19, 2006 at 06:30:03:
I like your thinking. That would be ideal if I were able to do it that way. However, it seems as though the old and new flooring is never off by a consistent amount over it’s length. In instances like that, the tapered shims is the best I’ve come up with. You’re right, though, it can be a hassle.