plumbing question - Posted by bobb

Posted by Michael(KCMO) on October 24, 2005 at 12:34:03:


That’s a cell nunber. Feel free to call any time.

How’s the market down there in your area? I know at one time there were quite a few on the repo lists from down there. Do the parks have a lot of vacancies?

Look forward to talking.

Michael Stilfield

plumbing question - Posted by bobb

Posted by bobb on October 20, 2005 at 21:48:26:

I just bought a 1970 DW. My handyman started repairs today. water does not run from the cold water faucet in the shower and bathroom sink. Handyman could not find a reason for the water not working. Kitchen and the other bath work fine. Handyman suspects the galvanized line has corroded the line shut and we are planning on replacing the line.

Of course the original plumbing is IN the floor ABOVE the insulation. It is actually hidden and hard to trace. Handyman is suggesting to replace with PEX but run it UNDER the insulation and simply wrap the new PEX with a lot of insulation. His reasoning, and it seems logical to me, is it would be labor intensive to pull the insulation down and run the pex ABOVE the insulation. He is suggesting we simply wrap the new PEX with lots of insulation.

I’m new at this so not sure what to do. We will be doing repairs Friday and Saturday so if you have experience with this problem please respond with advice ASAP.

Also have any of you purchased a book about MH Repairs? I just ordered one from e-bay. I welcome your suggestions on this also.


Re: plumbing question - Posted by Don N-Y

Posted by Don N-Y on October 25, 2005 at 06:08:07:

Log onto it is a great site for repair questions. Mark has writen a good repair book also. It covers plumbing with PEX (the best stuff going).

New leak alert - Posted by mike/nc

Posted by mike/nc on October 24, 2005 at 12:17:20:

At the place where I buy my MH parts at they had a new (to them and me at least) device to put beside your warter heater to let you know just as soon as it starts leaking. Its about the size of a pack of cigerettes and just lays beside the water heater. Runs off batteries. When Water touches it it sounds an alarm. I think the price was about $20.

Re: plumbing question - Posted by Tony Colella

Posted by Tony Colella on October 21, 2005 at 07:56:21:


I have replumbed trailers a variety of ways but the most crucial consideration in most areas is to keep the lines from freezing. In some homes, I have plumbed the lines inside the home by running the lines where the wall and roof meet and then later casing in these lines with a chase type box.

In the case of older, smaller homes I have just hid the plumbing but kept it all inside the home so that no freezing can occur and any damage that might happen can be quickly detected and repaired (nothing worse than working under and old home, in the cold, soaking wet). I prefer to work inside (warm, dry, quick and easy).

If you are going to run the lines under the home, then Karl is dead on. A few small slits in the underbelly to slide your hand in so you can guide the lines and then one larger whole where you make connections is the way to go.

Having the lines in the underbelly does insulate the pipes but typically the intention is to keep the lines near the vents so that heat can radiate from the duct work to the water lines so they remain above freezing.

You might want to question your handyman decision. He is taking shortcuts that make his work easier but will make your life harder. I suspect this type of decision by your handyman will manifest itself in other areas as well.


Re: plumbing question - Posted by Bruce

Posted by Bruce on October 21, 2005 at 06:21:28:

What I usually do is T off the kitchen line and run it behind where the fridge is and poke a hole into the bathroom wall. Once inside the bathroom wall,run it along the floor(behind the toilet) and box it in with 1 x 4 or 1x6. This way it is inside the home and freezing is not an issue. Put in a few shutoffs for emergencies. Much easier working conditions and no messing with the underbelly. Good luck. Bruce

Re: plumbing question - Posted by Karl (Oh)

Posted by Karl (Oh) on October 21, 2005 at 01:00:25:

Before you start running a new waterline, check to see if the faucets are clogged. A lot of times on older homes if the waters been off, pipe grit will clog up the valves and screens inside the faucets.

Next, I’d find the point of entry for the cold waterline into the bathroom, and open the line up there. See if you’re getting water to that point.

If you have to run a new line, its got to be inside the insulation. Its not that big of a deal. Slit the underbelly open in a couple places, just enough to get access the waterlines, run your new line, and close it back up. Either tape it back up, or just pack some more insulation into the opening.

Look for the Foremost Mobile Home Repair Guide. It will tell you everything you need to know to work on homes.

Karl Kleiner

Re: plumbing question - Posted by Garry (Ohio)

Posted by Garry (Ohio) on October 20, 2005 at 23:39:25:

If the pipe is out in the cold in the first place then insulating it will do nothing. It needs to be in the warm environment between the belly insulation and the floor. Just think about it, the supply pipe under the home is insulated but needs a heat tape to keep some warmth under the insulation. Without the heat tape the temperature either side of the insulation would equalize and the pipe would freeze in sub freezing temperatures.

Re: plumbing question - Posted by bobb

Posted by bobb on October 21, 2005 at 08:50:18:

Thanks you guys. That’s just the information I needed this morning. I’m calling my handyman right now.

What a great way to wake up. I wrote my question last night–and Walla!-- I wake up to 4 great responses. The kitchen is on the other end of the home so cant go through that wall, and ALL my water is “on the other half” of the home. But, I am going to combine your responses. Most of the run will be in the washer and dryer room then down “in the underbelly” than back up. Unfortunately I have to cross the hallway so… Oh wait a minute.

Tony, Do you ever cross the the hallway where there is no ceiling/wall meeting? The W&D room is across the hall. That would work great but I want it to look good.


Re: plumbing question - Posted by JT

Posted by JT on October 21, 2005 at 16:27:59:

I second the idea that you check the faucets first. Remove the supply lines to the sink and turn them on with the lines in a bucket. It would not be unusual to see both the sink and shower on the same end of the home clogged in tandem.

Re: plumbing question - Posted by jp(sc)

Posted by jp(sc) on October 21, 2005 at 09:46:55:

I might have missed it, but did you say where this home is located???

If you are in south florida, then it would make no difference where you run the plumbing. For that matter, I have exposed plumbing under houses in SC and have never had a freezing problem.

Re: plumbing question - Posted by Tony (WA)

Posted by Tony (WA) on October 23, 2005 at 20:23:53:

In addition to what JT does, I would remove the make-up lines(as the ID is

Re: plumbing question - Posted by bobb

Posted by bobb on October 21, 2005 at 15:09:11:

I wish I were in the warm Florida or SC weather. I’m in Kansas and we see sub 0 weather here.


Re: plumbing question - Posted by Michael(KCMO)

Posted by Michael(KCMO) on October 21, 2005 at 16:22:16:

What part of KS you in, Bobb? Anywhere near the Kansas City area? Feel free to give me a call.

Michael Stilfield

my location - Posted by bobb

Posted by bobb on October 24, 2005 at 10:08:11:


I’m in Wichita. I see you’re in Kansas City?

It would be great to talk to someone “kinda” local. Is that you H or Cell #?

I’ll give you a call within the next day.